Eleven Miles and Six Gondola Rides
After leaving Italy, Jason and I headed to Switzerland for a few days. We’d never been before, and we had decided to split time between Zurich and Interlaken to experience both the city and the Swiss Alps. My two expectations coming into the trip were that it would be absurdly beautiful and very expensive, and Switzerland definitely delivered on both.
We took the train from Florence to Interlaken, where we stayed in one of the old hotels downtown. It’s always odd for me, as an American, to be in a place where there is such well-established tourism infrastructure dating back hundreds of years. I felt a bit like this in Yellowstone National Park, but Swiss mountain towns are definitely a whole other level.
The afternoon that we arrived, we took the funicular from town up to Harder Kulm. The ride was steep and showed off beautiful views. At the top there is a viewing platform and restaurant.
The next day, we followed an itinerary I had found online that included two train rides, six gondola rides, and 11 miles of hiking in between some of the mountain towns.
The first leg of our journey was a gondola up to Grütschalp and then walking to Murren. The walk was beautiful; it was a clearly marked path that wound through the forest and meadows. We saw cows and lots of flowers.
We took a gondola up to Birg, where they have installed a walkway midway below the top of the cliff that allows you to walk around the edge. While the walkway was slightly unnerving, and I’m not sure I can recommend it for people who are afraid of heights, the views were amazing. It also included some scarier elements, like walking along a cable or over a plexiglass floor.
From Birg we took another gondola to Schilthorn, which was full of information about the James Bond movie that was filmed there. It had 360 degree views of the mountains all around, and while it wasn’t as fun as Birg in my opinion, it was very enjoyable.
After hanging out for a while at Schilthorn, we took the gondolas back down to Murren and then hiked to Gimmelwald. It was more stereotypical Swiss pastoral beauty, always with the striking mountains in the distance.
Once we got to Gimmelwald, we took the last gondola of the day down to Schilthornbahn and then began walking back to Lauterbrunnen to catch our train home.
We walked down the valley through flat pasture land and watched the crazy base jumpers landing.
The next day we headed to Zurich for the next part of our trip. We both really liked Zurich - it’s beautiful, easy to get around, has great vegetarian food, and generally feels very livable. It also oozes money, but in a very casual, classy way. At least half the cars were over $100k, and there were drivers waiting for their clients everywhere. When I would see a normal-looking brown Nissan or something similar, it was always a surprise.
It was also quiet. People seemed to use inside voices all the time, and I almost felt the need to whisper while walking around. The dogs were incredibly well behaved and just as quiet as their people.
One of my favorite parts of the city was the fountains. There are about 1200 of them, and they all provide drinkable water, which was lovely. The ones that were too large to reach always had a smaller, more convenient option for filling up a water bottle to the side.
One of our activities was visiting the university botanic garden, which was beautiful. It has three domes each featuring a different climate, and also had lawn and gardens around the domes as well.
One of the recommendations we got from a local was to go to the Lindt factory, which was on one side of Lake Zurich. After some confusion about the ferry system, we arrived at the giant building, which features an impressive two-story chocolate fountain.
If you’re interested in chocolate production, it was a really impressive tour. We spent about an hour but could easily have spent two if we listened to all of the audio clips and read every sign. My favorite part was the room wallpapered with spectacularly high-res photos of a cacao forest, but the descriptions of chocolate additives (and the associated taste testing) was also a good section.
We spent the rest of the day wandering before catching our flight back to Seattle.
We loved Switzerland about as much as we expected - it’s beautiful, full of kind people, and we found lots of great food. We’re excited to go back.