The Many Charms of Bergen

in

Every time we told someone in Oslo or Svalbard that we were going to Bergen next, they were delighted for us. It was a high bar and we weren’t disappointed.

After a long travel day, (Longyearbyen to Tromsø to Oslo to Bergen with a painful customs and security process in the hangar serving as Tromsø’s temporary airport), we got in late and headed to bed. On our first full day, we explored the city center. 

Muséhagen park (photo/Jason Rafal)

Bergen exudes beauty, fun, and youthful energy. It’s a college town with hundreds of years of history that’s also covered in beautiful murals and (frequently painfully direct) graffiti. It’s touristy but there’s enough space to get away from the crowds. Everywhere you turn there are colorfully painted houses (why does everything have to be neutral colored in the U.S.?) and tree-covered hills next to glassy water. We immediately loved it.

First, coffee (photo/Jason Rafal)

One more look at the beautiful colorful houses of Bergen (photo/Jason Rafal)

A beautiful mural (photo/Jason Rafal)

Another excellent mural (photo/Jason Rafal)

Bryggen, one of the most iconic areas on Bergen, features a row of wooden buildings that contain shops and galleries. First established in the 14th century, the area has burned down several times, and continues to be rebuilt to the original plans using traditional (very slow) methods.

Bryggen was the home of the German merchant community in Bergen, where they dominated northern European trade to both the east and west for two hundred years. The neighborhood within Bergen functioned as a self-contained village for the Hanseatic League, only integrating with the rest of the city when it lost power in the 1700s.

One of the inner alleys in Bryggen (photo/Nicole Harrison)

A ship through the wall of Bergenhus Fortress (photo/Jason Rafal)

Some of Jason’s urban bird photography (photo/Jason Rafal)

Bryggen at sunset (photo/Jason Rafal)

One of the evenings we were in Bergen, there was a culture night where various amateur groups gave performances at different stages around the city center. It was an incredibly broad selection of things - there was hip hop dancing, orchestral classical music, pole dancing, tango, and much more.

An adorable dog listens to the classical music (photo/Jason Rafal)

A pole dancing performance in downtown Bergen (photo/Jason Rafal)

Evening walks in Bergen (photo/Jason Rafal)

On day two we took the funicular up Mount Fløyen, which has a wonderful view overlooking the city. After hiking around a small portion of the beautiful and established trails at the top, we walked the steep, winding path back down to the city.

The view from the top (photo/Jason Rafal)

I was delighted that there were goats at the top of Mount Fløyen (photo/Jason Rafal)

A duck on a very calm mountain lake (photo/Jason Rafal)

One of the trolls at Trollskogen, a troll-themed park (photo/Jason Rafal)

The view up the hill to Mount Fløyen from Bergen (photo/Jason Rafal)

In the afternoon, we drove west of Bergen, near Telavåg, and went for a hike out to the coast. I found the trail by zooming around Google maps until I found some accessible public land, and it was a little longer and much muddier than we’d anticipated, but it was worth it. Sometimes the random side trips are busts, but sometimes they work out beautifully, and this was the latter.

Walking up one of the very steep hills on the hike (photo/Nicole Harrison)

The scenery was gorgeous but not at all what I expected - it was mainly huge rocky outcroppings with small plants and marshes in between. For some reason I had expected more forest and less low brush. We saw some other hikers, but the area was mostly quiet and incredibly peaceful.

Little lakes of water between the rocks (photo/Jason Rafal)

A fork in the marshy trail (photo/Jason Rafal)

Finally spotting the sea (photo/Jason Rafal)

One thing about being so far north is that the light is beautiful for a much longer period of time. We spent a few hours at the coast, and all of it was beautiful even though the sun didn’t set until after we left.

The trail was all rocks, mud, and catwalks (photo/Jason Rafal)

Nicole and the sea (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sheep grazing in the golden light (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sunset from the lovely Nordnesparken in Bergen (photo/Jason Rafal)

On our last day in Norway, we took a fjord tour. We drove out to Øystese for the tour, and stopped to see waterfalls on the way.

Mørkhølsfossen (photo/Jason Rafal)

You can see some guys doing military training on the right - we were amused that they used a rented van (photo/Jason Rafal)

In Øystese we put on thick, windproof full body suits and goggles and boarded a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) and set out into the fjord with four other tourists. Our local guide alternated between telling us about the surrounding scenery and taking sweeping, high speed turns through the water just for fun. It definitely would have been chilly if the weather was any colder or wetter, but we got lucky. The boat was very fun, had great visibility, and was able to get right up to the cliffs on either side of the fjord.

Very excited to get on the boat (photo/Jason Rafal)

A lone fall-colored tree on a rocky island (photo/Jason Rafal)

There were tons of tiny waterfalls in the fjord (photo/Jason Rafal)

A tiny rainbow in the water (photo/Jason Rafal)

One more picture of pretty water (photo/Jason Rafal)

A photogenic red boat in the green water (photo/Jason Rafal)

A little shed with a green roof hiding behind the rocks (photo/Jason Rafal)

A little rocky island (photo/Jason Rafal)

We would like this house (photo/Jason Rafal)

Jason continues to improve his bird photography (photo/Jason Rafal)

More birds (photo/Jason Rafal)

There were little towns everywhere in the fjord, some reachable by road and some only by boat. Many of them required a car or boat ride and then a short hike to reach the house.

Dramatic fjord landscapes (photo/Jason Rafal)

A boat dock deep in a fjord (photo/Jason Rafal)

A dramatic glacier background for some lovely hillside houses (photo/Jason Rafal)

Bergen was the perfect ending to our whirlwind Norwegian adventure, and we understand why people love it. We’ll definitely be back.

Bryggen from across the water (photo/Jason Rafal)

Colorful houses in Bergen (photo/Jason Rafal)

Self portrait in an art piece at the Bergenhus Fortress (photo/Jason Rafal)

78' North

in

We’d been excited for Jason’s work trip to Svalbard since he got the invite. An archipelago deep in the Arctic, Svalbard is home to Longyearbyen, the northernmost settlement in the world, and we knew it would be unlike anywhere else we’d ever been.

If you haven’t heard of Svalbard, I’d recommend finding it on a map for context. It’s closer to the North Pole than it is to mainland Norway. They have four months of midnight sun, two months of polar night, and another monthish where it’s just twilight all the time. We visited in the in-between time where there was both a day and a night, but it never truly got dark.

Traditionally, the human presence on the islands has been mostly Norwegian and Russian, but the Russian settlements mostly shut down in the 1990s. The region is considered an unincorporated area of Norway, so we had to go through passport control on the way there and the way back. The first prominent industry was coal mining, which is now mostly shut down and replaced by tourism and research.

Longyearbyen from the water (photo/Jason Rafal)

We were in Svalbard because Jason had a satellite conference hosted by KSAT, who owns ground stations all over the world (though the most exciting ones are in the Arctic and Antarctic, where they communicate with satellites in polar orbit.

Our first stop when we got off the plane at the Longyearbyen airport was the SvalSat ground station, where we were greeted by the eerie sight of more than 100 radomes appearing through the fog. The antennae and the radomes that enclose them range in size, but the largest ones are massive, as you can see in the first picture. We went inside one for the conference introduction.

The scale of the larger radomes (photo/Jason Rafal)

The radomes had varying patterns (photo/Jason Rafal)

I have been a few places that I could describe as otherworldly, but nothing comes close to the plateau with these radomes. The ground was all brown and gray shale, and especially in the fog, there was nothing you could see except for radomes and the occasional building. Some of the KSAT employees mentioned that the people who live in Longyearbyen have conspiracy theories about what the ground station is actually for, and I can’t fault them for that.

Radomes in the fog (photo/Jason Rafal)

The road to the ground station also goes past the Global Seed Vault, which houses more than a million seed varietals in case of any catastrophic incident that wipes out crops. The seeds are frozen and kept in the Arctic permafrost.

Looking down the hill at the Global Seed Vault (photo/Jason Rafal)

The door to the Seed Vault (left) and a building that we can’t help you identify (right) (photo/Jason Rafal)

After we checked into the hotel, we left for a boat trip into Isfjorden. It was dark and foggy and beautiful.

We went past Bjorndalen, the area I would hike in the next day. It was cool to see this valley from the water and then later be able to hike around.

A neighborhood leading into Bjorndalen, the valley between the two mountains (photo/Jason Rafal)

We also went past one of the old Soviet towns that are no longer populated. Grumont was home to more than 1000 people, which is hard to imagine looking at it now. The remaining buildings are very apocalyptic looking, with no windows and disappearing paint colors.

The Soviet settlement of Grumont, which was abandoned in the 1960s (photo/Jason Rafal)

One of the coolest things we got to see were the jagged mountainsides emerging out of the fog. In the summer, this strip of cliffs is the home to tons of birds who make their nests here. We were in Svalbard after they had migrated away, but the cliffs were still green from all of the guano.

Some of the most colorful landscape we saw in Svalbard (photo/Jason Rafal)

A view of the radomes from the boat (photo/Jason Rafal)

Longyearbyen, the town where we stayed, is home to about 2000 year-round residents and about 1000 dogs. No other animals can be imported, and there’s no agriculture allowed. There are also 300-500 polar bears in the general area, depending on who we asked, and anyone going outside of the main town area has to carry a gun, flare gun, or both. There are about 20 miles of roads total, stretching in three directions from Longyearbyen.

Colorful houses of Longyearbyen with snowmobiles in a row in front (photo/Jason Rafal)

Some more of the colorful houses in Longyearbyen (photo/Jason Rafal)

Along with the customary ban of cigarettes in Longyearbyen public buildings, you also can’t bring dogs or guns. The dogs are tied up outside, and the guns are checked into lockers or left in vehicles.

Three things not allowed inside public buildings in Longyearbyen (photo/Nicole Harrison)

A dog patiently waiting for its owner outside the grocery store (photo/Jason Rafal)

For being quite literally in the middle of nowhere, the creature comforts in Longyearbyen were pretty solid. There was a fairly well-stocked grocery and general store (Jason couldn’t get over the fact that there was self checkout in the Arctic), multiple outdoor clothing stores (the locals abide by the general Norwegian sentiment that there is no bad weather, only bad clothing), and a few restaurants and bars. My favorite store was a husky cafe where we got some gourmet hot chocolate and spent some time with three adorable, friendly huskies.

One of the huskies we hung out with at the cafe (photo/Jason Rafal)

The most northern fuel station in the world (and I have to assume the most northern Toyota dealership) (photo/Jason Rafal)

Yes, disc golf has made it to the Arctic (photo/Jason Rafal)

This is where the photos will be of significantly lower quality, because I took them with my phone or with Jason’s camera that I barely know how to use.

While Jason was in a conference room on the second day, I took a hike in Bjorndalen with an armed guide and a very nice couple from Switzerland. It was a great trip - we walked around in the Arctic tundra and saw reindeer and whales (I was torn about not seeing a polar bear but ultimately would have been very freaked out to see one on foot). I was originally supposed to go on a longer guided hike, but two trips had to be consolidated so the itinerary changed. While I would have loved to hike on the glacier, I’m ultimately glad I was on this trip because of the whales (more on that soon).

The end of the road at Bjorndalen (photo/Nicole Harrison)

Our guide, a Swedish student who changed her major to study in Svalbard and then decided to stay after her program was complete, walked us into the valley and showed us the landscape, pointed out reindeer, and slowly spun in a circle every couple of minutes scanning for polar bears.

When I go somewhere new, it’s the presence of things that usually stand out - new architecture or city sounds or dramatic landscapes. In Svalbard, the most striking thing wasn’t the presence of anything, but the absence. It’s an absence of smells, because the tundra smells like nothing, and neither does the sea. It’s the absence of sounds, except for the occasional barnacle goose honk and the summer song of the migratory snow bunting. We had multiple people tell us with reverence of the first time they heard the snow bunting in the spring and the feeling of awe that overcame them.

There’s also the absence of trees, and bushes, and color other than brown, gray, white, and the occasional green moss. I’ve never been to a place that’s so close to sensory deprivation, and I can’t imagine what it’s like in the winter.

All that being said, there’s a striking beauty to the landscape, and the simplicity and repetition of the mountains and ocean are awe-inspiring.

Looking up the valley (photo/Nicole Harrison)

A reindeer skeleton and some leftover hair blending in with the shale (photo/Nicole Harrison)

We did see a few live reindeer, but as I was having trouble making Jason’s camera work, I had to make do with my phone.

Yes, this is the best picture of a reindeer I got - I also wish Jason had been there (photo/Nicole Harrison)

There is old mining equipment scattered around the area, and we saw some on our hike. All the mines but one have been closed, but much of the equipment is considered protected for historical purposes, so it just hangs out and poses for tourist photos.

Some of the old mining equipment (photo/Nicole Harrison)

Circling shorebirds (photo/Nicole Harrison)

After we hiked around for a while, we went back to a yurt near the airport (right next to a campground where a man was attacked and killed by a polar bear a couple of years ago) and had a hot lunch while I tried to figure out what I was doing wrong with Jason’s camera. A few minutes after I figured it out, we saw the first whales.

Belugas don’t usually breach or do anything else so dramatic, so they just look like a lot of whitecaps in the water at first. This was a lot of whitecaps, though, so we quickly walked to the edge of the water and realized that there were about 50 whales feeding right in front of us. Our guide was even freaking out, which is when you know you’re having a rare experience. I spent the next 45 minutes taking pictures and videos, shaking from cold because I had forgotten my gloves at the lunch site, and trying to absorb the moment.

Dozens of beluga whales feeding in the water (photo/Nicole Harrison)

The scarred back of a beluga (photo/Nicole Harrison)

Swimming belugas - the gray one is a baby (photo/Nicole Harrison)

Whales passing very close to us (photo/Nicole Harrison)

After the whales started moving away from the shore, we headed back to the site to sit in the yurt and warm up. We also drank a lot of toddy, which is not what I would think of as an American but was also delicious - it’s like a (non-alcoholic) berry syrup mixed with hot water.

The view of Longyearbyen at dusk (photo/Jason Rafal)

We were only in Svalbard for about 48 hours, but it was definitely one of the most memorable parts of the trip. I can’t recommend it for everyone, but if you want to go somewhere otherworldly and maybe, if you’re lucky, see some whales and maybe a polar bear, it’s a good choice.

Welcome to Norway

in

Our trip to Norway started out in an amazing and completely unexpected way - we saw the northern lights from our plane while flying over northern Canada. It was the first time either of us had ever seen them, and I wish there was a better way to take pictures. It was a very special start to the trip.

Before we went to Norway, I kept hearing that Oslo wasn’t a must-see and there wasn’t much point in spending more than a day or two there, so I was a little nervous that our two and a half days would be too long. After being there, I’m not upset about our choices. If you’re trying to do all of Norway in a week or two, sure, you can get a feel for the city in a day. But there’s also great food and parks and hiking nearby, and generally plenty to do. It’s relaxing but not boring. 

Looking down a street with the palace in the background (photo/Jason Rafal)

Another lovely street (photo/Jason Rafal)

The statues outside of the Oslo city hall (photo/Jason Rafal)

A many-flagged boat in the harbor (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sunset from Aker Brygge (photo/Jason Rafal)

We spent a lot of time wandering through neighborhoods and trying coffee shops. Norway has really consistently good coffee, which was a nice surprise, and the food was great. 

We never figured out why these French public toilets were there (photo/Jason Rafal)

A friend at a coffee shop.

Looking down on Mathallen Oslo (photo/Jason Rafal)

We also explored Akershus Fortress, where some of the buildings have been since the 1200s. Something that became clear about Norway when we were there was that everything was originally built in wood and burned down several times over the years, so it’s pretty rare to have a very old building. Old areas, yes, but not as many very old buildings themselves.

Walking between the fortress walls (photo/Jason Rafal)

The telefon booths were very cute. There are about 100 left in the country, and they’re all protected. They still have phones in them, but also free libraries and a plaque telling the story of the booths. They’re charming. 

Trying out a telefon booth (photo/Jason Rafal)

As is becoming our habit, we spent some time at Oslo’s botanic garden, which features sprawling grounds, large trees, and beautiful greenhouses showcasing different plant biomes. 

The beautiful Palmehuset (photo/Jason Rafal)

A huge drooping flower (photo/Jason Rafal)

A lovely cactus flower in the desert greenhouse (photo/Jason Rafal)

Helicopter seedpod art (photo/Jason Rafal)

A cave of greenery (photo/Jason Rafal)

Another beautiful part of the botanic garden (photo/Jason Rafal)

We also spent some time exploring the Grünerløkka neighborhood, which is a lovely mix of river walks, great food, and amazing art.

Murals and graffiti (photo/Jason Rafal)

One of my favorite murals in the city (photo/Jason Rafal)

The royal palace is a cool experience because while the palace itself is guarded, the grounds are free and open to the public, which adds another giant park to the city’s list. The informational sign even said “Please walk on the grass. Hug the trees - Enjoy!” which is the happiest  message I could imagine on a park sign.

Walking through the park to the palace (photo/Jason Rafal)

The Opera House is iconic and wonderful. The sloped roof lets you walk all the way up to the top, where you get a lovely view of the city and the water. 

Walking up the opera house (photo/Jason Rafal)

Some of Oslo’s floating saunas from the opera house (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sitting in front of the opera house at sunset (photo/Jason Rafal)

The central library on the left, opera house in the middle, and Munch museum on the right (photo/Jason Rafal)

We also went to see the Oslo central library on the recommendation of our Airbnb host, and it was lovely - open, airy, lots of windows, lots of art, and lots of what people actually need from modern libraries (computers, work spaces, and good areas to hang out and talk with people).

A massive art piece in the central library (photo/Jason Rafal)

On our last day we went to explore the Vigeland park, which is known for its size and its enormous number of statues of naked people. Aside from the giant pillar of bodies, there were various interactions between pairs and triads on top of bridge railings and incorporated into steps. It was fairly weird, but some of the emotional ones were pretty interesting.

Statues at the park (photo/Jason Rafal)

The last thing we did in Oslo was head out to the peninsula that has all the museums. The viking ship museum is unfortunately closed for the next several years while they rebuild it, so we went into the Fram museum, which was also very cool and featured two 19th century polar ships that we could walk through. The fact that someone went to the south pole in 1910 is both fascinating and horrifying to me, and the fact that Admundsen also reached the north pole in 1926 is even crazier. My favorite part of the museum was walking through the ships and seeing the meticulous detail that has been restored to the living quarters, including life sized, realistic mannequins. 

Admundsen in his study (photo/Jason Rafal)

The ship’s chef (photo/Jason Rafal)

We were surprised to see they took a piano to the north pole…but entertainment is important on a six-year trip (photo/Jason Rafal)

Early the next morning, we left Oslo and headed very far north.

Tiny elevator self portrait (photo/Jason Rafal)